rich in moisturizing or lighting
cleansing make the perfect shampoo for
your hair
today we're making real shampoos so this
is a tutorial that you don't want to
miss
hi guys welcome to whole elites i'm
elise and as always you can find the
full recipes on my website hololease.com
so let's just get straight into it our
first shampoo is a sulfate free
clarifying shampoo that won't strip your
hair
this shampoo is amazing when you just
need something that cleans your hair
if you use heavier products like gels
butters and hair grease
all of that can cause build up so it is
great to use a clarifying shampoo every
now and again
just to make sure that you're starting
off with a clean base a basic shampoo
has three main components
a water base cleansing agent and a
thickener
but that can be a one-way street to dry
ville so using floral waters and
hydrosouls
will give our shampoo a moisturizing
boost as well as a lovely fragrance
without having to use oils measure out
your water base
i'm using lavender hydrosol but you can
use any that you'd like
or you can even make your own following
my tutorial above
a little goes a long way so i'm also
diluting this with water
now to cleanse our hair and scalp we're
using surface active agents or
surfactants for short
they work by attracting both water and
all molecules
therefore allowing your shampoo to wash
away dirt debris
build up and excess oils i'm using deco
glucoside which is my go-to mild natural
surfactant that won't strip your hair
this cleanser is even used in baby
products so you can't get much milder
than that
i explain more about surfactants here so
click the icon above for more
information
on natural cleansers and how to choose
the right one for you
we're also going to use another
surfactant coco betaine
it boosts our shampoo's conditioning
powers reduces irritation
but also creates a rich thick lava
so full disclosure for a really basic
shampoo recipe you can of course just
use one surfactant
but if you love that rich and creamy
lather then you will need to use a
secondary surfactant or foam booster
and that's what the cocoa beaching does
we'll also need to measure out glycerin
and guar gum
guagan light xanthum is a natural
thickener but we're using it here
more for its conditioning properties
it's common for clarifying shampoos to
cause knotting and tangles in our hair
because they don't have any conditioning
elements mix the guagam and the glycerin
first
together to make it easier to disperse
evenly into the water mixture
guagum is unique as it coats your coils
laying the cuticle flat
and helping with detangling
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once the gua gum is mixed in we can then
add the surfactants
pour in the decal glucoside and cocoa
betaine and whisk
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we're actually making our shampoo by
hand so all you'll need is a regular
whisk
you could use an immersion blender but
due to the surfactants it will foam
so i'd actually recommend skipping it
at this point we've made a good shampoo
but it's not yet a great one
even though the mild surfactants used
will make sure that the clarifying
shampoos don't give us that unpleasant
squeaky feeling
we can still add in a few more
moisturizing elements to further protect
our hair
by adding in active ingredients like
botanical extracts proteins hemetons and
vitamins
this gives your clarifying shampoo some
moisturizing capabilities
these are optional but it also makes
sure that the shampoo isn't too
stripping on your hair
ingredient number one is d-pemphenol
also known as vitamin b5
i give it a formal introduction in my
diy shoe moisture deep conditioning
tutorial
so check that out by the link above for
more information
but essentially it's a powerful
conditioner moisturizer and anti-static
agent
that gives your hair that signature
sheen and bounce next up we have protein
also essential for strengthening damaged
and weakened hair strands
but also draws moisture into your curls
increasing its elasticity making it less
vulnerable to dryness and breakage
pour both of these into your shampoo
base and mix thoroughly
next up everyone's favorite part
preserving i'm using a broad spectrum
preservative that's going to protect
your shampoo from mold bacteria and
fungi
this is incredibly important as the last
thing you want to do is go through all
of the effort of making a great shampoo
only to see it decay in a matter of days
at this stage we can adjust the ph of
our shampoo
for this you'll need some citric acid
which you can buy in most supermarkets
to balance the ph you can also use
something like apple cider vinegar
in fact i do this in my previous african
black soap shampoo tutorial the only
difference
is that citric acid is so much more
potent because it's far more acidic than
vinegar
meaning that you only need a tiny
sprinkle in order to balance your ph
surfactants soaps and other cleansers
tend to have high ph values
that make them effective cleansers but
also irritating to our skin
by adding in something acidic we can
change the ph so that it's more in line
with our scalps
we're adding such a small amount it's
likely that it won't show up on most
scales
so go slow and add citric acid bit by
bit to make sure that you don't overdo
it
a ph of around five to six is within
good range for most shampoos
so you may have noticed but our shampoo
is still quite liquid
to elevate this from a diy shampoo to
the ultimate shampoo
we're going to need a couple ccs of
thickness measure out 0.5 percent
xanthan gum
along with more glycerin guacam is great
for texture and conditioning
but i find it easier to thicken liquids
with xanthan gum
like before mix the xanthum with the
glittering before adding it to our
shampoo
you can always add more but you can't
take away to start with a small amount
first
natural gums can take a full 24 hours to
thicken the liquid
so even if it seems a little on the thin
side initially
it will continue to thicken after it's
had time to sit
pour the tantum into our shampoo and
whisk fairly
and i mean thoroughly you want to make
sure that there are absolutely no lumps
once that's done wait a couple minutes
and use a spoon to check that it's
thickened
even though it's still runny you can see
that it's slightly thicker
now wait some more just
five minutes later and look at the
difference stop here
i know it's tempting to add more i
myself have been down that road before
but it's not worth it for this formula
i've only used 0.5 percent xanthan gum
and you can see that even though it's
still liquid it's definitely thickened
i'd say that you can go up to about one
percent but i definitely wouldn't
recommend adding any more than that
the difference between point five and
one percent xanthan gum
is huge for those in the back that still
want to add more
look what happens when i add just two
tiny grams more
of phantom gum not too bad right
well that is how it tricks you one hour
later and it looks like this
pure slime many a shampoo have been lost
to xantham's cruel nature
so you've been warned but when used
right you'll end up with this crystal
clear
ultra silky clarifying shampoo that
gently cleans but
doesn't strip your hair next up we have
a rich and moisturizing conditioning
shampoo
when it comes to natural hair using more
conditioning and moisturizing shampoos
are the best way to ensure that your
hair isn't stripped of its natural oils
so this
conditioning shampoo formula is perfect
to use for a regular wash day
to keep things simple it has virtually
the same base as the clarifying shampoo
so if you can make one you can also make
the other measure out the hydrosol and
water
deco glucoside cocoa butane glycerin and
guar gum
like before mix the guagam and glycerin
together before adding it to the water
base
next add the decal glucoside and coco
betaine to form the water phase of your
shampoo
and once everything's mixed together
here's where it starts to get
interesting
so this is where injecting knowledge of
your own hair will give you the best
results
ideally you want to use whichever oil
works best for your hair
to get the most out of this moisture
boost if it's jojoba
argan oil olive oil castor oil whatever
it is
use that here measure out your oil i'm
using coconut oil
and then to make sure that the oil mixes
in with your shampoo and doesn't just
sit on the top
will need an emulsifier but not just any
emulsifier
the ultra slip and conditioning natural
hair's best friends
btms emulsifying wax for added
stabilization it's always a good idea to
throw in a fatty alcohol
i'm using settle alcohol once
everything's measured out
add the coconut oil btms and settle
alcohol
to the heatproof container so that we
can melt it down
this moisturizing shampoo is an emulsion
so we'll need to heat our water and all
ingredients separately before combining
them together
over a low gentle heat melt until no
solids remain
and then whisk the molten oils into the
shampoo base
now this is usually where i'd reach for
my trusty immersion blender
but as i said before it's actually
easier to whisk this by hand
to avoid the surfactants foaming too
much
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whisk routinely as it cools to ensure
that it's emulsified fully
after about five minutes you should have
a silky smooth slightly thickened
shampoo
like with the clarifying shampoo adding
in a couple extras like pamphenal and
protein will help to keep your hair at
its best
i won't force you but i'm just saying
for me the balance between being
cleansing but not overly drying is just
right with these two shampoos but it's a
good idea to always test out a product
first and do a patch test before
applying it to your hair
at this point we can add our
preservatives notice the s on the end of
that
you'll need to use a broad spectrum
preservative like before
but also an antioxidant because we added
oils to make this a moisturizing shampoo
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check your ph and sprinkle some of that
citric acid to bring your shampoo back
to a well-seasoned
5 ph range
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and after another good mix you'll have
this gorgeously smooth
ultra conditioning shampoo and now for
some of those finishing shots you've
been waiting for
a little bit of patience pays off as
both the clarifying and conditioning
shampoos are noticeably thicker
after a couple hours to create this
super satisfying final texture
[Music]
for me the balance between being
cleansing but not overly drying is just
right with these two shampoos
but it's a good idea to always test out
a product first and do a patch test
before applying it to your hair
it's always a good idea to test out just
how stripping a shampoo is going to be
before applying it to your hair so a
hack that i've been doing for a while
now
is to actually wash my hands with the
shampoo now that might sound
weird but if you get that overly drying
filling on your hands
then that's a pretty good indicator that
the shampoo is going to be too stripping
on your hair
don't forget to check out whole
elise.com for the full recipes and
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