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Creating a PDF Sewing Pattern Line: Behind the scenes of an indie pattern maker

everyone this video is going to be a bit

different than my normal saying this

because some of you already know I'm

about to actually launch my first

garment sewing party ila leggings and

that pad will be out on November the

14th which is basically just about a

week away now there's still some things

to do for sure I'm not it hasn't done

they're always things that needs to be

check double check but I'm getting

really really close and that is actually

what I want to talk about in today's

video which is to share with you guys

the step that gives in to developing

upon when you're starting from scratch

and perhaps you are thinking about

developing your own paddle someday

oh just curious of what it actually

takes so I thought I'd just take you

through all the steps that I've been

processing now developing this pattern

and also last year I launched three

accessories selling pants video patterns

so I got my feet wet last year

developing this so this is basically my

collective experience now as you might

understand I'm definitely not kind of a

super experience when it comes to

developing PDF buttons because this is

actually only my fourth pattern but I

thought that was actually a valuable

thing because what I can share with you

guys is basically I'm just a couple of

steps in front of someone who's just

starting out which I think if you're

doing it for a lot of years sometimes

easy to forget the basics but hopefully

because I'm still so fresh in this I

will be able to remember to share with

you all that sort of stuff that goes

into developing your pattern so let's

start and look into all the different

steps it takes I know first step when

creating a path is to do the actual

pattern Rosie now I will talk like a ton

about that in this video because such a

massive topic but if you curious to

learn more about you can check out the

videos I've done about pattern making

and of course there are lots of books

and great resources both here on YouTube

you know a whole over length and you

will find great information about

dropping your pattern and I also

recommend that you take a class which

I've been taking two different classes

in pattern making getting started but

it's definitely like a process and just

because you take

we can floss or night evening class in

pattern making to expect here we become

super efficient it it's more like an

introduction I think the learning is

basically when you start doing and I've

actually been making my own patterns

since the 8th is so I think about

doctoring my first pattern almost 30

years ago and I still feel that I have

lots and lots of lots of learn so as I

say it's not like a quick process some

people figure it out faster than I do

but I think the most important thing is

to do a lot of experimenting and also

understand that you won't really nail it

at the first try even though you are you

know following the rules and doing all

the right things so what I'm trying to

say if the pattern maker is kind of

complex so that's why it's also

important to take your time when you're

developing a new pattern one thing

that's really important to think about

if you're drafting Pamela you plan to

sell is that you shouldn't really draft

it for yourself only

so you basically need to figure out a

size that you're dropping for them it's

difficult to make suppose it fits you

you like but at some point you need to

figure out what your sizing system will

be and your side shot by the way I've

done a video about password you can

check out in the description section but

that is a really good starting point for

instance when I developed this pattern I

decided on the size 38 that's my base so

I developed that and made sure that it

fits within the site shows I had in mind

also of course it helps that I am

similar to a size 38 in a lot of

Ridgewell but remember that I am a very

short person so I have to do quite a

substantial amount of alterations to

make God's fit so I had to ignore that

fact and draft a pattern for a person

that is much taller than myself which is

one of the reasons that it can be a

little bit dangerous I think they're

just being very focused on yourself and

creating something for your own body

because sometimes you know that is very

personal thing you need to find like

sweet spot but can actually fit a larger

range of people so that's why you kind

of have to like figure out what is the

size that you're a drafting for and what

size range do you plan to use what

to film your base pattern in your base

size then it is time to get this paved

product into a computer so you can start

with the digital process the first step

is to figure out how do I send this to

the computer a couple of different

weights are doing it I think the most

common ones are either then you scan the

pan and then obviously have to create

like sections because obviously most

part pieces will be much larger than

your average scanner another way is to

take a photo like flat photo

modak habit when it comes to taking flat

photo is that lots of cameras will

slightly distort the image to do the

lens which means that you might have to

check that when you're actually using

the digital photo later on because you

have to make sure that there is not some

type of distortion happening which can

obviously influence on how the pattern

looks ok so now we have the file inside

the computer it's a photo or it's a

compilation of several scanned image but

how do I turn that into the pattern well

there has been like a workaround for

people like myself that is not a digital

pan maker I don't have access to the

tools nor to have a knowledge but a lot

of people now are using Adobe

Illustrator which is a vector-based

program from the Adobe Creative Cloud

and the good thing about this program is

that a kind is similar to like making

programs in the way that you create

vector graphics you can scale you can

move around and also I would say the

probably any type of CAD software can do

something similar but I would say that

perhaps a new illustrator has now become

like the standard for a lot of

independent companies when you sort of

transforming that photograph or that

scan file into digital pattern of course

you can also actually draw off the

pattern from scratch inside of Adobe

Illustrator which I actually deal with

these idle ladies because because it's

not like a very complex pattern in terms

of

pieces that goes together I actually

found that I didn't really need to do

that I can just drop from scratches

using grid where I settled for the

measurements and then I dropped it just

using the curves inside of Adobe

Illustrator but if you have a photo you

need to basically trace over it using

the illustration tools that you have in

Adobe Illustrator and I can have to take

a little time I think again you will

find it or that as well and I also know

that there is I think there are some

classes you can take educational

programs on how to do this it definitely

takes a lot of time it definitely

requires some practice so again don't

expect that this will be like a very

smooth ease process as for my background

I have been doing a graphic design

computer-aided graphic design for over

20 years so I have a lot of experience

using the Adobe suite and it also has a

certain has a lot of experience with

pattern making still to be honest it was

really really hard to learn this process

and trying to figure it out by myself

probably because I I didn't have like

any much reference reference material

how can I learn everything myself which

ah yeah it definitely took a lot of time

figure all this stuff out

I'm sure if you buy one of those classes

or perhaps there's some other resources

you can use you would probably spend

less time with this learning process

than I did but if you're unused usually

so probably definitely expect there will

be a quite a steep learning curve again

that's with everything else though once

you invest the time in it sooner or

later you know it's not to make sense

and you will see those improvements as

we're grading well that it's definitely

a beast I think more so me personally I

decided that this is not a journey I

should go on because that it's

definitely outside the scope of my

knowledge when it comes to pattern

making and I don't want to be a pattern

have messy stuff the sizing specially

says I plan to make a path with ten

sizes and I was like this is so not

something I want to do that said I know

that you can find a way of doing

like trailing steps within Illustrator

but again remember it's not a program

that it's designed to great patterns so

you definitely need I think to do some

lip hacking in order to do this properly

but I know people do it so Stefon doable

but because I didn't want to mess things

up and I also realized from the research

I did it'll be this way it's really

clunky too for grading I decided that I

was going to enlist the help of a

professional so that's what I did I had

connected with the pattern maker here in

Sweden she's called Molly and I of

course link to her as well

she's also developing her own pattern

sewing pattern line so she understands

both water so she supposed to understand

the red where will and she also had the

perspective of us home service I thought

she was perfect for this type of talk so

I enlisted her and you know she did the

grading a her professional program in

just a matter of hours which to be

honest had literally taking me weeks to

figure out and not just that I would

probably also have messed things up so

if I were to give you an advice even if

you're doing this on a shoestring

definitely see if you can punch it in

using a professional grader if you're

developing comment because that's

probably we save you so much time and

also be much more assured regarding the

quality of your grading especially if

this is not something you have

experienced with previously as I said I

knew people who get this done anyways

but I would not take that risk

personally that's in my opinion but I

just definitely think there's something

you should consider so I go to file back

from Melina and I was able to input that

into the illustrator and then the next

big process stones which is basically

creating sizes with all the markings to

formatting for PDF to create a grid so

that when you print it out it looks nice

and are easy to assemble this took me

forever pretty much I have to

and I was actually surprised along

YouTube because as I said I have a lot

of experience with graphic design I am

very versed especially in using the

sister program to the illustration which

is Adobe InDesign I understand that well

I also I'm pretty good at Adobe

Illustrator but I still struggle a lot

trying to find the best system for this

now I'm really happy with what I

accomplished when I'm with the finished

product but this was definitely a big

learning curve for me to create that

great looking grid and also making sure

that everything like flowed together the

layout and all that stuff we do when

using it in real estate is that you use

odd force odd force a look similar to

pages and what you do is that you settle

on the size of the printed rectangle you

know the rectangle that usually it's a

bit smaller than the actual paper and

has a line around it that our board is

what would be the actual like pattern

size of when you're gluing all the

pampies together so it's not like a full

page especially tricky because obviously

we have different pattern paper sizes

and even possible world here in Sweden

we used a four I knew that in North

America use letter right from other

countries as well so that's definitely

one of the struggles you need to figure

out so you have to sell on the sides

that is smaller than a letter so you

still have the printer margins as well

but the magnetic both of our ports is

that when you print out the pattern the

PDF actually understands that this is

just smaller size even if you really

need to figure out is how to create that

grid of the lines around it and you know

all the markers that would tell the

serviced on how to piece all the Pampas

together all that stuff well that took a

long time to me to figure out the best

way of doing it I'm a house unhappy with

my workflow but I definitely thinking

that I was able to create a really good

consistent like layout don't think of

all the time and also I decide to do

layers which means that each size has a

separate layer so you don't really have

to print out all the sizes if you just

want to make one size and creating

sweet which is something I know that a

lot of people appreciate these days also

I have developed copy shop Merson which

is a large-scale version as well because

I know more and more people actually

using a large gate printer because you

know pay gluing together pdf pattern

pages well there looks way more fun

things to spend your time about it's

usually it's harder storage as well so

it does make sense if you're able to

have like a large scale printer I can

definitely see why that would be much

more attractive options than using your

home printer with those tiny papers so

that's why I actually designed two

different type of PDF one version for

the copy shop and one version for our

home printing tools and in PDF files

right you also need to create the

instructions now within this sewing

pattern movement I can definitely say

that the bar has been raised when it

comes expectations on how the

instructions looks like so a lot of

Industry patent companies they have very

detailed instructions with clear

step-by-step illustrations either

using photography or technical

illustrations that is definitely

different from the world I grew up in

here Europe where a lot of us learned so

you see the various pairs instructions

in German patent magazine which

spacecrafts which is super the pieces

together you've done so that that's a

very very big difference and of course

because as I said the expectations of

ended soon patent company is very

detailed instructions this is like

premium product so if my advice I think

that you really should spend your time

with the instruction because that's

basically where the expectations lies at

this point in in the business of

independent companies so I decided to

put a lot of effort into my structures

so I actually use technical

illustrations for most of the

instructions but there are couple of

things a couple of steps in my process

that actually it's better teach using

photos combined with industry

so I love this as well I just was

interested in basically in finding the

best way depending on what type of

assembly process it was but mainly I did

lots and lots of technical illustrations

I think over food if 40 foot in stations

again I am NOT illustrator by any means

I as I said my background is graphic

design war but I think after a little

bit of you know training in an

experiment they are thinking and came to

pretty good press when it comes to

developing this and again that I also

deal in Australia now of course it's

also there's always a debate on are you

carrying tissues photos or are you going

to choose technical illustrations for

your instructions I will say the general

consensus is that more so specialty

illustrations over photos but it also

depends on what you are able to produce

basically because for some people it

will just be a too big of a struggle to

develop technical illustrations and then

I think probably taking very good

helpful photos will actually be a good

option as well so you don't have to feel

like you have to do take illustrations

just in order to release a patent but

you can also do something which I have

done for a couple of techniques in for

my sewing parties that have actually

combined photos with some graphics and

technical illustrations just to make

sure that everything is like the best

possible way of sharing it I really like

that method but for the most part I did

technical illustrations another benefit

of the administration's I would say over

photos is that a lot of people will

print out the instructions and of course

if you can't do it with using

illustration that saves a lot of ink

again that could be something to

consider but as I said if you can't you

know hack it with illustration I would

definitely say go for the focus but see

if you can just add a little bit of

graphics just to clear some of the

things that perhaps aren't as clear when

you're just using photos and I'm still

in the process I'm doing the final

tweaks now before I am about to launch

my cabin which I'm very excited about as

I said

the 14 that's where it's all happening

you can also get on my email list and

you will be notified when it's on sale

and of course I will also have more

information in the description section

and when the patent if out I will do a

video about that too so you can see and

learn more about that pattern and see if

it's something for you I really hope you

enjoy this video I figure have any more

questions about developing PDF patterns

and the process gives bound the scene I

love to know so please ask in the

comment section and I hope to enjoy this

video

stick safe and I'll see you next time