what's up everyone dr maxfield dr shaw
first of all
shout out to my pimple over here that we
extracted at the office yesterday if you
want to see how that went you can go
check out my tick tock because there's a
whole video of that pimple extraction
anyway i had i had to call that out in
the video in the beginning because i
knew it was going to pop up in the
comments i just ate mile them today
we're going to be talking about how to
shrink your pores whoa can it be even
done can it be even done
and it can't you can't shrink your pores
your pores are genetic but what we can
do
is many different techniques to help you
minimize the appearance of your pores
and i did this thing on tick tock live
the other day where i kind of went down
with an explanation of how you can do
this and actually drew out like a
diagram got a lot of positive feedback
from people on how that was really
helpful so i'm going to draw it out for
you here today we're gonna put it up on
youtube
that way everyone can look at it and see
what we mean by
why these things would work potentially
to minimize your pores
alright so here we go here we go
all right so i got a diagram here this
over here is going to be the skin
surface and a pore okay all right so
this over here is your pore
i'm going to draw a line to it this is
the pore this is the opening that you
all see
on the surface of your skin so you
notice here it's like a cup shape almost
like it's more
wide near the top right like a bowl
almost
okay so it's skinnier near the bottom
more wide near the top this is gonna
become important near the end all right
so these
blue lines over here this is something
called the stratum corneum
which is the very top layer of our skin
and it's it can be more than one cell
layer thick but these are just dead skin
cells essentially dead corneocytes
dead keratinocytes and they sit at the
top layer of our skin
and they can vary in in thickness all
right so then
then you have the rest of the epidermis
here so this over here this whole area
is called the epidermis
and then you have underneath that
something called the dermis
okay so inside the dermis the dermis is
made up of a lot of different things but
some of the main things that it's made
up of are collagen
and glycosaminoglycans also uh the most
abundant glycosaminoglycan
is is hyaluronic acid so what you always
hear about hyaluronic acid that's one of
the most abundant substances
in this dermis we're going to focus here
on collagen and elastic vibrates or
elastin
which are going to play a big role in
the appearance of your pores so i'm
going to draw that with
i'm going to draw this over here in
yellow so this over here
is your collagen and elastic fibers but
what they do is create
support structure for your skin and
additionally
they surround that sort of bottom part
of the pore
if you can imagine that your collagen is
damaged
by something like the sun so uva
radiation has a long
wavelength it gets through our glass
windows it gets through our car windows
and it can actually get destroyed by
that and the elastic fibers can also get
us destroyed by that and once you lose
this collagen you can imagine that if
you lose these support structures
here that your pore will start to dilate
outwards right because you're losing
those
support structures that kind of makes
sense right if you wear
sunscreen then you'll prevent this
dilation of the pore that's occurring
that makes sense right you lose those
support structures your poor dilates
so the first line of treatment to
prevent your pores from looking larger
or to actually just wear sunscreen it's
also broad spectrum sunscreen it needs
to cover both uva and uvb
and there you go one step to minimizing
your pores the reverse
what if we were to build collagen okay
so for to build collagen you could
actually squeeze the pore
right kind of
dr maxwell's always looking for like an
opportunity to flex on camera
so i gave him this opportunity right now
but so basically
if you were to instead build your
collagen up over here
right so you're squeezing it around it
you're building your collagen
you could actually make your pore go the
other direction so then that would
squeeze the pore
minimize your pores so what are some
things that we can do to build collagen
foundation
vitamin a derivatives retin-a retinols
retinol retinoid adaptolene trinomial
tezeratine any of these ingredients are
going to help build collagen over time
so your first line of defense i think
probably the most powerful and most
studied
form to build your collagen over time is
going to be
um your vitamin a derivatives another
option
vitamin c potentially niacinamide
as well uh so some of these other
ingredients um things like microneedling
right where we
we poke little holes into the skin um at
a at a physician's office
that sort of can build collagen through
wound healing can build collagen over
time as well and then a lot
more complicated advanced techniques we
do too like lasers like co2 laser
things like that so many options to
build collagen but you know it makes
sense you build collagen you sort of
squeeze the appearance of your pores
okay now i gotta i gotta draw something
else for you here
so this over here that i'm drawing is
something called
what there it is the oil gland sebaceous
gland sebaceous glands sebaceous lobules
these things are the things that are
producing your oil or sebum and they
actually kind of release that sebum into
the
into the pore and that's why people can
have variations in the oiliness of their
skin
uh overall but um if as if you can
imagine if you
fill this thing up with a ton of oil um
it's gonna end up dilating your pore
over time just because it's just so full
of stuff
so uh to get rid of this all you have to
do is try to minimize your oil
production or remove the oil that's
building up in your pores a couple
things that can decrease oil production
so i guess we have to we have to start
with the goat yeah greatest of all time
to decrease oil production or what's
been studied to decrease oil production
yeah isotretinoin
accutane it just is the best it's the
bomb you drop on the oil glands
exactly so so that obviously a lot of
people don't have access to that or it's
not appropriate for a lot of people
but that would decrease your oil
production and and
thus minimize the appearance of your
pores however if you want to look at
some over-the-counter options the
niacinamide has been studied
uh particularly in the japanese
population showed a benefit with
decreasing oil production
but in in some people it seems to
normalize sebum or oil production
decrease oil production can minimize the
appearance of your pores uh additionally
things like green tea extracts
l-carnitine have been also shown to
decrease oil production now the question
of what
of whether or not topical retinoids
decrease oil production seems to be
sort of not proven believe it or not so
we actually don't know whether topical
retinoids can decrease oil production
and there actually haven't been any
studies at this time that show that they
do
what if we wanted to remove oil from the
glands instead so if you remove the oil
then that could also minimize the
appearance of the pores
obviously you want to be using your
alcohol-based astringents witch hazel
um hydrogen peroxide uh cleaning
solution i've used all these things
works great okay but really so what if
someone just like takes that clip from
you
and like post it everywhere it's that
clip and it's like dr maxfield said
i think there's a large group of people
who would be like i knew it he knew it
i'm gonna follow him now you probably
would get like this
sort of like alternate group of people
that it's true
like an influx from a whole new crowd
the anti-medicine crowd is going to
start following you yeah it'll be my
thing
so we're removing it right so we're
going to do a gentle cleanser
uh salicylic acid being that lipophilic
one that concentrates in the oil glands
to remove some of this oil
well you disagree no i totally agree so
so beta hydroxy acid salicylic acid
very good at getting into those pores
and getting rid of some of that oil so
you can either have that as a cleanser
or you can have that as a levon product
as well
so now we've decreased oil production or
removed oil
the last thing that you can do okay this
one you know it's kind of have to get
like very conceptual with this here
um we're thinking about that strap back
this stratum corneum layer right
if it gets to be higher you know you're
going to notice that that sort of cup
shaped opening
is going to be more obvious so if you
can imagine that if we were to somehow
sort of bring the skin level down a
little bit
right so if we were to somehow bring the
skin level down such that
we actually cut this layer in half then
you would notice that you're bringing
the pore closer to the base where it's
skinnier near the base and therefore
your pore is going to look less obvious
so what are a couple things that we can
do to sort of thin the
stratum corneum layer or make it more
compact and what for the third or fourth
time we're back to retinoids
exactly retinoids over time have been
shown to sort of make that that layer
more compact
additionally you could do just your
chemical exfoliants your salicylic acid
lactic acid i love that so lactic acid
is the one that i use
um and then your glycolic acid other
acids that help to
flatten out that layer as well and
exfoliate the skin and then other forms
of
mechanical exfoliation like dermabrasion
dermaplaning microdermabrasion things
like that where you
are helping to sort of normalize that
top layer of the skin
so those are the three things you could
do so let's just like put together a
routine that
over time so the key here right we have
to we have to caveat this here is that
um
first of all this routine that we're
going to give you is going to treat a
lot of different things so
not to just minimize your pores but
ultimately these other these ingredients
that we mentioned have so many other
benefits right so
ultimately you can stick to this routine
and it will slowly minimize your course
over
months uh that you'll notice an
improvement in that to give you that
sort of like glass skin
dewy skin appearance okay so i would say
during the day
i would do a gentle cleanser um any
cleanser we'll put links down below of a
good routine but something like this rv
hydrating cleanser would be a good
option
uh pretty much any cleanser would work
in this stage just gentle
then i would follow it with vitamin c to
try to build up that collagen
squeeze the pore and then i would do a
sunscreen that has niacinamide in it
like the alta md uv
clear which has niacinamide in it so
that's also going to decrease oil
production but also protect your
collagen inelastic fibers
protect those support structures okay so
then at night i would go gentle cleanser
again
yeah um or you could do a cleanser with
salicylic acid in it uh but gentle
cleanser i i like to go the gentle
cleanser out then i hit it with the
retinoid
five to six nights a week and then you
can even layer that with niacinamide as
well
and then follow it with a gentle
moisturizer and
then uh the other one or two days a week
i would use a chemical exfoliant a levon
chemical exfoliant like
the bha liquid exfoliant the lactic acid
exfoliants a glycolic acid exfoliant now
you do this over several months and
you're going to see improvement in your
skin
so should i like quit my day job and
like get into pretty much i already have
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