hey everyone it's katie from bobby hair
studio and today i'm going to show you
how i did a nine hour color correction
that got this client from this hair
color
to this hair color in one day
keep in mind some of my clips are going
to be low quality because they're taken
from my tic toc live
but let's get started
my client has hispanic hair with 3
inches of natural black root
and the rest of her hair has two
sessions of professional black dye in
there
with the last four to five inches of her
hair having old platinum bleach in there
in our previous consultation we
discussed this being
the color that she wanted to go to but
hopefully lighter if possible
just so you know
this is going to be a very messy process
so i'm using my framar back bib
and i'm putting it on my client over top
of the cape to go over the back of the
chair to protect the chair
the cape and her neck
this process took a really long time so
i am speeding up everything to about
four times the speed
but here you can see that i am starting
by painting on the root and then down
through the mid shaft to the ends of
every single tiny slice of hair and i'm
applying a piece of foil just to sit
below
to insulate and hold but i am not
foiling the hair
by putting every piece in foils that are
tucked in and tightened
i'm actually doing three slices and for
every three slices i'm going to be
closing it up with another foil on top
but i'm not folding them in because i
want the bleach to have the opportunity
to swell
and get out of the way if it needs to my
apprentice will be doing the other side
while i do this side
things to keep in mind saturation is key
always use thin sections
formulate with your porosity and
underlying pigment in mind
because she's hispanic she has a lot of
yellow colors in her hair rather than
orange and red
and i know that because we've done a
test round on her and her hair lifted
very quickly in the ten
in the 20 minute test strand and it
lifted to a very yellow tone
which is actually what we want for this
service
in the bowl i have 20 volume and blondie
bleach
and i don't have any cool additive or
anything mixed in there i just wanted to
get a raw lift to see how light i could
get it
in the first bleaching now i know that
that root is going to lift up
beautifully and i won't need to bleach
that again
it'll more so be the black dye that's
underneath
well it's very pale yellow but it looks
white right now
because of all the bleach that's on it
but yeah it's a nice pale yellow
good i might only need to do a seven
volume on here
or a wet balayage
or i could even use the clay bleach
i want to know if he's gonna hang on
though right because it's the staining
it's like
still the same amount of lift has
happened there's just a stain on the
outside
so now we are scraping away the bleach
and taking out the foils from any of the
areas that are finished processing for
the first
bleach and we are letting the rest of
the hair stay insulated and catch up
here is what it looks like so far looks
pretty crazy
but this is for sure i trust the process
it's looking pretty good so you guys can
see where her virgin is
here and then where the old color is
here
a pretty good lift on the root but that
root could still use a little longer
because we want it to look like this
side where it's
more whitish so that's one of the things
that can happen pretty easily for um
newer stylists to this is you can
accidentally rinse off your bleach
too early and that's what you don't want
to do so you see how i flipped over
what was over here it used to be over
there i flipped it over set up in the
root area
she can get a little bit warmer and
process a little bit better
now all the ends are done the foils
they're all looking very even with the
stuff that's done in the back
so i'm just leaving on the top okay you
guys want to know what
breakage looks like okay
i'm gonna tilt this a little bit let's
see her ends
okay here is her
old bleach a little pull and see how
it's suddenly stretching like that and
it came off
that's all her old platinum
three three and a half inches length
right there
so yeah that's your old platinum in
there and the rest looks like it's all
the um
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all the black because it's it's stopping
that right around here
so i think we'll give you your trim
before we do your second bleach
to get rid of any of that old bleach
under there
but the rest of her feels really good
so guys this is something we had
discussed beforehand
this much of her hair in the very ends
used to be platinum blonde and then
she went black twice so
and all of this length except for the
very ends
this here i'm gonna minimize this you
can see
a little better so from here to here
never been bleached before so it's doing
totally fine and we discussed this
during our consult
this right here not feeling great
because it's used to have
bleach in it so this is its second or
third time being bleached for this stuff
right here so it's gonna come off so
that's what we're gonna cut
the rest all that feels great just so
everybody understands what's going off
here
now here is just a clip that you can see
how big a difference
virgin hair versus permanent black dye
cost
when i rinse it off you're going to see
how yellow the hair really is versus the
ends looking super super orange
now just to be clear this is not what
hot roots is hot roots is when the first
inch of the hair looks very bright and
vivid
but this is the first three to four
inches now we're
cutting off the ends the damaged dry
ends
and we're going to give her a new fresh
u-shaped v-shaped cut with layers now
we're going to test strand for our
second bleach out
so right here i have seven volume
i have a mix of bologna and a mix of the
blonde meat clay
it's like equal parts almost of the two
maybe a little bit less of the clay and
then right here
i have 20 volume and it's mixed with
blonde me and clay
i'm only putting the bleach on the areas
that are orange because i don't need to
lift the blonde
areas any further they're already a
level 10 they're looking beautiful
so we just want to lift where the black
dye is and uh
that will be quite a process
on the hair so we're definitely not
going to be bleaching her hair again
i've already told her about this
but just so you guys know the next step
is not to bleach again the next step is
to grill this out and cut it off
what we're doing here is this is seven
volume
and this is 20. and they're both mixed
uh equal parts with blonde meat which is
a nine level lift and
um the blondie clay which is a more
gentle lift
because i'm trying to see what happens
however if both of these suddenly just
like snap off
and we're gonna have some chatting to do
we find out what color we can go in
between
or if you're willing to cut off a little
bit more hair and go with a lighter
color
because these ends are darker than like
these mids so
overall i think that it'll be totally
fine to do these foils
but this is why we check because i
i mean you'd rock a pixie but let's not
do a pixie today if we
um from what i see the 20 looks like it
did look better
but lifting better isn't always
the best plan because we want to keep
your hair healthier so that's why we did
try both options
here feels okay only a tiny bit of give
in that there's really not much
so it means that her hair can handle a
seven if her hair can also
handle the tr the 20 really well then
we'll probably just do the 20 because it
looks like the 20 lifted better
i'm going to dry this little guy
okay so we are getting a little bit of
unhappy hair
this side
probably wouldn't mean yeah you can see
how those ends
don't look really good anymore and they
like they looked good before
like and that could just be because
there's maybe still a little bit of that
old blonde in the end but
let's test
only see how it's doing a little bit of
stretching not a ton
it's bouncy so do you see a difference
between
these two colors right here so the seven
was more gentle
and it didn't get as much of a lift but
there's really not much of a difference
once it dries up
so here are you two rebleach pieces you
see how there's a slight difference
between the root and the end still
yeah it did lighten them up the ends are
still you know
not not our best color um
but it did help to kind of blend between
the two colors
so in my opinion i wouldn't want to go
with the 20 just because of the damage
that it causes
the thing is about bleaching your hair
again
there is the potential of some breakage
in there
are you wanting me to do
kind of a um
a darker blonde lighter brown color
today or do you want us to
pursue and go for the lighter blonde
color you should pursue
if we need to do a little bit more just
to kind of get rid of this kind of
brassy end
because the color from here to here
is nice it's just those kind of orangey
ends so if we really need to but super
bothers you when we're done
then we can play around with that or
what we can do is tone to match to this
so that means all this has to go darker
yeah i don't usually find that's worth
it
because you're taking it all to be
really light and then you're just
darkening it back
down yeah me personally i'd rather get
rid of the last few months of growth
so that i don't have to lighten this
again later or like wait for it to fade
out to get like the blood i wanted
that's just my opinion but if you want
to pursue
on and you will go lighter then we will
do that
you can take a little lump why would i
take the lungs right
in here i make some cool additive as
well because she's got a lot of orange
my assistant katie is going to just be
watching me apply the foils here because
i'm trying to apply to
just the areas that are orange enough
and not the areas that are lifted to a
beautiful platinum blonde
i'm using my framar big papa foils
because i want to get the back done in
one
big section and get the sides done
really fast this is going to give me
great insulation these are great foils
for doing
large sections all at once but i
wouldn't use them if i was trying to do
the back section all at once really high
up to the root
because i'm not going to get to the root
near the ears just near the center of
the
back of the head so this is great for
this kind of process or for any kind of
balayage actually
doing two in each of these sections is
i'm trying to give it really really good
saturation using the cool additive mix
bleach
and i am feathering up into the area
where it's slightly more orangey
not quite as dark as the ends though
this is honestly one of the most
satisfying looking things look at that
also the funniest thing happened on our
live uh some of our followers decided to
send us food to the salon so here's the
pizza guy bringing us in free pizza from
our followers
thank you so much miranda
did she get us
pizza oh my god oh my god
oh my god you guys
so we all had a snack and now it's time
to rinse out my clients ends
and what you're going to see in the sink
is that her hair looks a lot lighter and
cooler than it really is but that is the
cool additive and the lightener on the
hair
she will still have a decent amount of
orange in her hair but i find that the
cool adidas really helps to kind of
tone it as it's being lightened
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now i'm going to shampoo her with some
purple shampoo from finola
this is going to help deal with a little
bit of that brass and to
clean out any of the bleach residue in
her hair before i decide to tone her
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i'm about to have my formulation written
up here next so remember to pause if
you're looking for a formula to
balance out orange and yellow zones in
the hair now this formula
is going to help even out my canvas and
help
to cool down warm spots and warm up cool
spots as much as possible in one toner
however we may need to do a second one
but i'm going to give her the option
of starting with the lightest possible
version first and then seeing if she
wants me to darken it down
my client did tell me earlier she'd
prefer to be the lighter color
and to trim away at the brassy ends over
time
rather than to darken down the top of
her just to match the ends that she
doesn't love
anyways so here we are blow drying hair
and here is the final result to me this
looks
pretty good for a nine hour service
going from black to blonde in one day
there is a little bit of that
inconsistency in the color in the ends
versus the top
but overall i think it was a fantastic
lift her hair is really healthy
she just needs to get a moisturizing
mask from time to time because it is
super blonde
we gave her some beachy waves and i'm
going to show you what this looks like
in a little bit of natural in direct
light
and here it is in natural direct
lighting you can see the difference
between the two colors a little bit
stronger here
which i mean that's going to be the case
in different lightings you're going to
see different colors in the hair
and now we're going to go back into the
salon and there
is the photo shoot shot there it is
she's looking like a beautiful honey
blonde to me and i'm really happy with
this and i'm really proud of myself for
doing this in one day thank you all so
much for watching please like and
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