[Music]
so here are the things
i'm starting with i'm starting my ankara
this is a very lovely anchor fabric
then i have my lycra fabric here just
get any fabric that stretches
okay then my zip
to start cutting i have my fabric on a
fold of two already
and the length of this jacket is going
to be 22 inches so the length of this
fabric is 22 inches here now from the
side
i marked um three quarter of an inch
across the entire length of the fabric
and this is for my zip allowance so
i just marked to cut of an inch to the
top part of the fabric
when i was done i folded and secured
with a pin
so that was what i did for the zip
allowance
i secured with pins to hold it down you
know
so when i was done securing the pin i
stretched it out made sure everything
was well smoothed out then i folded into
four okay so now we have our fabric on a
fold of
four we are good now from the center
i'm going to mark four inches for my
neck wheat
i'm going to mark four inches for my
neck wheat
then from the top i'm going to
mark three 2.5
inches for my neck depth okay four
inches of my neck width
2.5 inches for my neck depth so when i
was done marking
i just drew the neck outline
from the center i extended my tape
backwards and marked my shoulder
now my shoulder is um 17 inches which is
like 8.5
but here i marked 9 inches okay because
this is more like a sweatshirt it's not
exactly on the shoulder
then from that point i extended my tape
downwards and marked eight inches from
my armhole curve
then i drew my amble cove okay
so i drew my amble curve kind of
smoothing it in there
then at the top i went down by half an
inch
to form my shoulder slant you guys know
our shoulders are not exactly straight
so i went down by half an
inch to form my shoulder slant so this
is my shoulder slant this is the
neckline
shoulder slant amble next thing i'm
going to do
is what next thing i did was i went
ahead to mark
my bust now whatever measure whatever
your boss is you're going to add
two inches to it okay so my boss is 8.5
inches that's divided by four i went
ahead to mark
85 inches will give me 10.5 inches
that's plus
the two inches allowance because our our
sweatshirts our bomber jackets are not
exactly
tight so 8.5 plus 2 will give me
um 10.5 so i just went ahead to mark 11
inches so that the remaining half inch
would be for sewing allowance so i just
added two two inches
to my bust and my waistline my boss my
underbust
and my waistline and after adding the
two two inches i marked
the points and i connected my markings
with
you know some lines the lines are not
straight you guys can see
okay so i'm going to go ahead to mark
the neckline dimensions for the back
so for the back i marked half an m1
inch for the neck depth and for the neck
wheat
i marked the four inches as well so for
the front you guys know i marked like
four bytes
2.5 some people do four by three point
five just do what works for you okay
so when i was done marking the neck
dimension for the back i just connected
my markings
with a curved line i drew my neckline
you guys know how we draw
the core for our necklines so this is
what we have here
the next thing i'm going to go ahead to
do now is to
cut so i first of all started with the
back
i cut the neckline for the back
then i cut the one for the front so i'm
cutting the neckline for the front right
now remember that
zip allowance is still only food okay
then i went ahead to cut the shoulder
slant
the arm hole and the sides okay
so when you are cutting one thing you
want to ensure is you
you want to make sure that the fabric is
thin please don't cut when the fabric
has shifted from the center so that's
why when you are
folding you have to secure your fold
with pins so that everything will be
well
put together
so after cutting the shoulder the sides
everything you're going to go ahead to
notch the
center there's the zip allowance the
center for the back
okay also the center for the front just
the center of both the top and the
bottom of
the jackets so this is my front part and
my back part
now to start sewing the jacket we are
going to unravel
the the zip allowance i'm going to take
out the pins
so after taking out the pins one thing i
did was i pressed the zip allowance down
i gave it a good press with my
pressing iron then to sew the jacket
you're going to open it up like so
then you're going to place the front
part on the back part you're going to
join the shoulder
slant okay you're going to join the
shoulder lines together
then you're going to join this side as
well
after joining the soda slants together
shoulder lines together are going to
join the sides
okay now you guys know that i added half
an inch
for my sewing allowance for this side so
when i was done joining the shoulders i
just went ahead to join the sides by
half an inch seam allowance okay so
that's what i did for the shoulders and
that's for the sides for the shoulders i
just i bought the picking and i picked
the shoulder
okay now you guys know i don't have a
weaving machine so once i'm done with my
seam i just go back in with a zig zag
stitch
to lock the ends so when i was done
sewing i took it to my ironing table i
ironed the sides i opened up the seam
eye on the sides ironed the shoulder
lines
i just kept ironing and ironing and
ironing i gave it a really good press
you guys know
ironing has a very big role when it
comes to dressmaking
so you have to iron okay even though
it's a bomber jacket you have to iron
cut me
so you'll notice that i've added the
wealth pocket to
the front part of the jacket i have a
detailed tutorial on how to attach a
world pocket
link in the description box okay i
didn't want to put it in this video
because it's going to make the video
very long
so i have a detailed tutorial on how to
attach a wealth pocket link in
description box
the only difference is you have to
attach a pocket bag
okay it's that simple so when i was done
ironing
attaching the wealth pocket ironing
joining the sides
this is what we have here okay so this
is the
bodies okay we are almost this jacket is
coming together already
so this is what we have here then the
next thing we are going to go ahead to
do
is to measure the width of my waistline
that's after joining so
i just went ahead to measure the width
of my waistline
and it gave me 32 36.2
inches okay gave me 36.2 inches
i know we dress making you all you
always have to measure two times to be
very very
very very very short okay because i'm
not in the mood for stories
so i measured my waistline two times and
still gave me 36.2
inches the next thing we are going to go
ahead to do ladies and gentlemen
is to cut the band and we have a little
mathematics to do here so you guys get
ready now you're going to cut in
direction of the stretch
okay i'm going to cut in direction of
the stretch now to cut the waistband
my waist is already 36.2 inches
and you guys know that when it comes to
waistbands for bomber jackets we have
like this front and carabin
before you have the light crab band so
the lycra band is 3.5 inches i know it's
going to be on two parts
of the of the band that's the left hand
and the right hand side so 3.5 inches
times 2
will give me 7 inches now 36.2 inches
minus 7 inches will give me 29.2
inches okay now so we have 29.2 inches
for the lycra band now you guys will
notice that when it comes to
when it comes to bomber jackets when it
comes to sweatshirts you notice that the
band grips a little
and around the back you notice that this
little goddess effect or sharing effect
and to create that with this band we
have to go down by
you know three inches on the lycra band
so that when you go down by three inches
when you're sewing and you pull the
lycra bound like you stretch
like a brand and so it will give that
sharing effect you give that goddess
effect you understand so what i did here
was
from the 29.2 inches i'll make up my
lycra band
i went ahead to minus three inches so
29.2 inches minus 3 inches will give me
26.2
inches which means what i'm going to cut
for my lycra band
will be 26.2 inches okay so the 26.2
inches you can add half an inch for
sewing allowance
so that is how i got you know the length
for the lycra band i'm working with so i
just went ahead to
cut out the length 22.26 i don't know i
was saying 22.26.2 inches
then i added a little sewing allowance
so this is the band
we have here okay this is the band we
have it i marked the back so i won't
make
a mistake if i've been saying 22 points
for 22.2 inches please it's 26.2 inches
a big
oh god i'm so tired okay now to cut the
ankara
band that we're going to attach the
leica band i'm just going to from the
top i'm going to mark
the length i didn't tell you guys the
length of this band the length of this
band is
six inches okay so both for the anchor
and for the
lycra the length is six inches so i
marked six inches
i did that across the entire length of
the ankara print
then the next thing i'm going to go
ahead to do now is
i'm going to cut it out okay
so after cutting out the width the
length of the fabric i'm working with
i'm going to go ahead to mark the width
of the fabric which is like
3.5 inches for two pieces okay so
that i did here i mark 3.5 inches for
two pieces now the width of what i'm
making here is seven
inches 3.5 five to give me seven inches
after cutting out seven inches
i'll still go ahead to divide it into
two because you know the ankara band is
going to sit on
the two sides of the jacket okay so this
is the acara band
and this is a light crab band and to sew
these guys what you just have to do is
place the
caraband on both sides of the lycra band
and you are going to
join it after joining you are going to
top stitch okay see
i'm joining the lycra band now and after
drawing i'm going to do this for both
sides
of the band even though i captured just
one side after joining
the next thing i went i had to do was i
went ahead to push the seam
towards the ankara band and i top
stitched on the ankara fabric
you are not going to top stitch on the
leica fabric okay top stitch
on the akara fabric to hold the seam in
place
we are good now after top stitching
you're going to
come to your ironing table and you're
going to give it a good press you know
some people tell you that oh you don't
iron
lycra fabric chapter one versus what
people love good
you iron your lycra fabrics okay so
you're going to give it a good press so
that you
fade and the press helps to fold the
band into
two equal parts okay so you're not just
eyeballing and what you want to sew you
notice that the thing is shifting
here and then you iron it very well so
that everything will be in place
okay so that's what i did here i gave it
a really good press you guys know me and
my irony like
i think i should open a dry cleaning
shop by now but no i'm not going to
so i gave it a really really really
really really rare
okay good press okay
so after giving it a good press i took
it back to my sewing machine and i
top stitched okay so i top stitch from
the ankara band
to the other side of the card band all
over the
the leica piece and you know see i was
done because
i'm top stitching because i also i don't
want it to move around
when i am sewing you understand when it
comes to sewing you just do everything
that will make your sewing process very
easy and smooth
and stress free okay so when i was done
top stitching
i also topped to the sides as well
because you know we are going to attach
that part to the zip side
so this is what the band looks like
next thing i'm going to do is i'm going
to secure i'm going to attach the band
to the jacket and i'm going to secure it
with some office paints okay
[Music]
you can see that the band is not the
exact length
of the jacket but by the time we pull
you know it's going to give us that
goddess effect we want at the back part
so you're just going to join the band
along that as is so i took it back to my
sewing machine guys and i joined the
band
to the bodice okay i joined the band to
the bodies
and i did this on half inch swim seam
allowance because
i wanted everything to be you know equal
and precise so with the calibration on
my dog feed i just joined it on half
inch seam allowance okay
so one thing i did was i first of all
joined the ankara
band to both sides i joined their car
band on this side
joined the anchor band and decided to
make sure that all the ancara bands you
know they
are starting and stopping at the same
point then for the rest of the band as i
was sewing i was pulling
okay as i was saying i was pulling the
lycra fabric to make sure
you know it is stretching i will have
that goddess effect at the times have i
almost pulled my sewing machine out of
the table just imagine
so that's what i did and i did this to
the end
so the jacket is coming together already
guys when i was done joining this is
what it looks like you guys can see that
you know
grip and cutter's effect it has at the
back you see it
well when i read the jacket so the next
thing now we are going to go ahead to do
is this is what the back part looks like
you can see that goddess effect
at the bottom okay so that is the effect
i want to have and that's what like
these bomber jackets that is what they
always have
at the bottom at the back as well now
next we are going to go ahead to do
is to cut the hood i think the highlight
of this jacket is the hood
so you're just going to fold the
neckline fold it
you know and take care of a pin you're
going to use your
tape and measure the you know
the length of the neckline so what i got
here when i was done
measuring twice is 10.2 inches okay
10.2 inches is the um
is the length of the neckline is it
length now
which just choose one okay that is it
and you guys know that i always measure
twice
to make sure that you know my
measurement is precise
and to have like a perfect fit so that's
what i did here measure twice and i'm
going to go ahead to
cut the hood right now so i'm just going
to fold a piece of fabric
into two then i'm going to take my
measurements okay
so the first thing i did was i folded
into two then
from the top i marked 15 inches the
length of the hood is going to be 15
inches
so if you feel mine is too big you can
reduce yours by
one inch or two inches depending on what
you're going for
so i just marked 15 inches across the
entire
you know length of the fabric and i
connected the markings with a
straight line okay i connected the
markings with a straight line
this is what we have here now from the
side
i marked 10.2 inches you guys just stay
with me here there's a little
technical stuff here going on here i
mark 10.2 inches which is like the
actual
length okay which is the actual sorry
the actual width
of my neckline okay so i marked 10.2
inches
i did this as well across the entire
width of the fabric
we're good so i did this at different
points because i want my measurement to
be precise
along like along the whole fabric so
when i was done marking
i also got back with my ruler and i
connected my markings with a straight
line
now the next thing you're going to go
ahead to do is you're going to
you're going to verify your measurement
again which was what i did here
then the next thing i'm going to do is
you're just going to add him
add in i don't know i'm having hedge
factor you're just going to
you know insert a cough day for your
head because
is that the the hood is not pocona now
it is covered around the the head side
so you're just going to
eyeball in the curve there's no exact
measurement for that
so when i have i was done inserting the
curve the next thing i did
was i added half inch sewing allowance
okay
so i'm going to take my time and add
half inch swing allowance around
the cuff side every every day so
when i was done adding the half inch
strain allowance i went in with my ruler
and my chalk sometimes i did free hand i
was i'm just doing free hand here
i did my ruler you know i just made sure
that the lines were equal
now from the bottom you're going to go
up by
1.5 inches and you're going to insert a
curve okay one thing you want to bear in
mind is after inserting the curve
it must still give you 10.2 inches
which is like the actual width of
the of the collar that's the one you're
going to attach to the neckline
so in your mac when you are trying to
measure where the 10.2 inches
starting from don't measure it from the
you know sewing allowance measure it
from both the
from the joining allow from the actual
point minus the
from the actual point minus the seam
allowance i just hope i'm not confusing
you guys
but you understand what i'm saying so
when i was done marking up the market
booze
i just went in with my scissors and i
cut out
the hood so this is one piece you need
um the facing for this so you're still
going to go ahead and cut two more
pieces
then i went in to cut the cove for the
hood
okay so this is what we have here guys
then i went in to cut the facing so we
have four pieces
now to sew this hood you're just going
to lay each piece on each other like so
you're going to join it
along that point so that's what i did
for my hood
i'm going to have two hoods joined
together so one is the main piece one is
the facing
so i took it to my sewing machine and on
you know that we added half an inch you
know seam allowance sewing allowance
so now when you want to join you are
going to do
half of half of an inch joining for
for this call because by the time you
want to turn it over again
you still have to join it by half of
half of an inch you know
so in allowance so that by the time you
you you turn over
you want the half inch the whole half
inch added
for the sewing allowance you would have
you know exhausted it
you can see that i joined half i still
have like half of the sewing
the the seam allowance left and that is
what i'm going to use to turn over you
know this raw edge
of the hood i just hope you understand
what i'm saying but just
look at what i'm doing it's very simple
to follow so you're just going to lay it
on each other
and join the lap the center point to the
center point
like the center point to the center
point secure with a pin
make sure they are well lapped or well
aligned
okay make sure it's well aligned
securely a pin
do this for both sides you can see that
everything is precise here this is
because
i walked in as i made sure i worked with
precise measurement so
after securing a pin you're just going
to join on that point
top stitch and turn over so i took it
back to my sewing machine so the
remaining half of half of an
inch seam allowance that was what i used
to turn over
the raw edge of the of the hood
so after turning it over i top stitched
okay
you want to give it a really good top
stitch because you don't want
your hood puffing out you don't want the
lining the facing of your hood puffing
out
so you are going to give it a good top
stitch then you are going to iron it now
around those that curved
part of the hood you're going to kind of
do you're going to cut it a little
with your scissors although i did it off
camera but you have to cut it a little
with your scissors so that it will be
very relaxed
okay so when i was done joining the hood
this is what it looks like i'm just
going to turn it over
it's very simple to turn over just turn
it over
and this is our hood guys so
next thing you're going to do is the
center of the hood
we are going to align it to the center
this is the center back
of the of the jacket i'm going to align
it to the center back of the jacket
you're going to secure the pin you're
just going to align the
hood to the neckline you're going to
secure a pin
secure the sides with pins after
securing it with paint the next thing
i'm going to go ahead to do
is i'm going to join the wood to the
jacket so
along that point you're just going to
join the hood to the jacket like so okay
it's that simple guys very simple
you can see how well aligned the hood is
to the jacket
so i i'm joining the hood to the jacket
now and after joining i'm going to go
back in and lock the raw edge of the
hood
with a zigzag stitch you guys know i
don't have a weaving machine so
i keep my stitches and my seams needs by
you know zigzag stitches okay so
after joining i did the backstage and
this is what we have here guys this is
the hood you can see it's looking long
here but trust me it's a perfect fit on
my head okay
so this is the hood already joined to
the jacket the next thing you're going
to go ahead to do
is to cut the sleeve so i've already
marked out the outline for the basic
sleeve
one thing you want to do is you are
you're not going to make the arm hole so
tight so normally if you mark 8 inches
for your armhole what you will do
is you mark like nine inches so that the
amber will be a little free that is for
the length of the armhole
therefore the dimensions of your arm if
your armor normally the width of your
upper arm is six inches you are going to
mark
eight inches okay so that you know the
jacket is a free one so you're going to
mark 18. just add two two inches to the
dimension of your arms
so that you know um the jack the sleeve
is not going to be
tight you understand so this is the
sleeve
we've caught next we are going to do is
we are going to cut the
band the lycra band for the sleeve
and for the lycra band on of the sleeve
the width the
the width of my lower sleeve there
is um five points five point five
inches now for this band i'm going to go
down
by 1.5 inch okay so 5.5 inch
minus 1.5 inch that will give me around
i think four inches is it four inches am
i right i think three inches
mathematics is my problem guys anyways i
went down by
1.5 inch and i caught the band
and you guys know that when it comes to
the band for our sweatshirt our bomber
jackets
uh it has to be tight
not really tight he has to have this
same grip okay
so that's why i went down by 1.5 inch
for the lycra band
what i'm going to do is i'm going to
join the sleeve like so
okay if you don't know how to cut a
basic sleeve i have a detail tutorial
link in description box
and i'm going to fold my lycra
jacket my like i'm going to fold my
lycra band
and sew it on that side i'm going to do
this for both sides okay
i'm going to do this for both sides i'm
going to join it like so then i'm going
to fold it and attach it to the main
sleeve
okay good so now i took it to my sewing
machine
i joined the sleeve the sides of the
sleeve
after joining it i went back in and did
like my zigzag stitch
to lock you know the end of the sleeve
did the back stitch to secure my
stitches so i've already joined the
lycra band here you can see what it
looks like what i'm going to do is i'm
just going to fold it into two
i'm going to fold it into two and i'm
going to top stitch and the reason for
this top stitch is to hold the band in
place
so it's not when you are sewing the band
to be shifting here and then
so this is what it looks like i'm just
going to take it to my sewing machine
and i'm going to top stitch it round we
are good
so this is me ladies and gentlemen doing
the stops
doing the top stitch like the good girl
that i
am if you've watched up to this point
are you enjoying this video please hit
the hit the like button smash the like
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i'm a part of the family okay so now
after top stitching
the band i went ahead to attach the band
to the sleeve and you guys know for the
band we went down by
1.5 inch so when you are sewing you have
to do a little pulling
and by time you do the pulling when you
are done so you have a little
goddess effect uh you know got that
effect or guardian effect
on the sleeve so this is what we have
here you can see
the sharing effect we have there okay
now after preparing the sleeve the next
simple thing you're going to do guys is
to just
attach the sleeve to the
jacket okay attach the sleeve to the
jacket if you're having issues with
attaching a sleeve cutting a basic
sleeve i have a detailed tutorial on how
to attach a sleeve
link in the description box okay i also
have a detailed tutorial on how to cut a
basic sleeve
link also in the description box now the
next thing i'm going to go ahead and do
is to attach the zip
i know i showed you guys a green zip at
the beginning of this tutorial i changed
my mind
and i want to use a black zip so this is
a black zip i am going to attach
to the jacket i don't know when i went
to the market they are calling it lion
zip
or happy tiger zip i think it's tiger
whatever it is
just go to the market and look for this
type of sleeve this type of zip
okay so you guys can see how i am
attaching the zip
to the jacket the zip allowance is still
folded so i'm sewing
on top of the zip allowance so you're
just going to join
the zip make sure your stitches are
straight to the jacket when you get to
the top
if the zip is too much you're just going
to fold it just
a little little bit just a little little
bit
i'm going to do this for both sides okay
you're going to attach the zip
for both sides just take your time make
sure the zip is um
make sure your stitches are straight
make sure everything is going well when
you are done sewing give it a really
good press
so after joining the zip guys this is
what we have here
this is a bomba jacket i love it so much
it's so beautiful
it's so cute if you enjoyed this video
please give it a thumbs up don't forget
to subscribe it means a lot to me join
the family
come back for more videos enjoy my
pretty face
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so
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