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hi everyone today's sew along is for a
great bomber jacket it's fully lined and
has a decorative faux zipper on the
sleeve the pattern is available free
online at moodfabrics.com I've left the
link for you below so you can print it
out and sew along with me today go ahead
and subscribe so you're always notified
when a new video is posted and make sure
you check out my other sew-alongs for
more great sewing projects now let's sew
the avalia jacket you will need two
front jackets from fabric and from
lining two back jacket pieces from
fabric and from lining
two sleeves from fabric and from lining
two zipper plackets two self drafted
zipper facings measuring two inches by
six inches
four red knit bands
two rib knit collars cut on the fold
two rib knit cuffs
one separating zipper measuring roughly
25 inches
and one regular zipper about four or
five inches let's create the stitching
grid for our zipper using our
self-drafted two by six inch pattern
piece
fold your pattern piece in half on the
long edges
to form a crease
open it up and measure a quarter inch
from both sides of the crease and Mark
also Mark a line a half inch from both
short edges
this gives us our stitching grid
I've pinned my stitching grid to the
right side of my right sleeve
and using tracing paper and a tracing
wheel I'm going to mark my grid
I'm going to do the same thing on one of
my zipper facings
now I'm going to place the facing on top
of my sleeve markings both pieces are
right side up
and I'm going to pin them together so
the rectangles are precisely on top of
one another
now take this to your machine and sew
along your stitching guide
slice open the middle of this box that
you've created
right down the middle but a half inch
away from each of the short stitching
lines
now clip two but not through the corners
of your rectangles
now we're going to take all this excess
Fabric and flip it into the inside
through the slit
take it to your ironing board and give
it a really good press
now grab your short zipper and your
remaining zipper facing and place your
zipper along the middle of your facing
and sew all the way around the zipper
I've sewn my zipper to secure it to the
facing
and now I've also additionally cut
little tabs for either end of the zipper
measuring 2 inches by one and a half
inches and I press them in half
I will align these with the short ends
of the zipper facing
and base them in place
now that it's basted my faux zipper is
ready to be placed into the sleeve
place the right side of your zipper
underneath your sleeve on the wrong side
of the sleeve
and Center it in place and then pin
now I'm going to take it to my machine
and I'm going to Edge Stitch all around
the sleeves rectangular opening
I've switched over to my zipper foot for
this step
now here is my faux zipper from the
outside
Now set your sleeve aside and let's
construct our lining
with your two back lining pieces right
sides together pin the center seam
sew with a half inch seam allowance and
press your seams open
place your front lining pieces right
sides together with the back lining
piece
and pin the shoulders and side seams
now sew your shoulders and side seams
with a one-half inch seam allowance and
press them open
now fold your sleeve right sides
together
pin and then sew the side seam with a
half inch seam allowance
now it's time to set our sleeves into
the bodice with right sides together
start by matching your underarm seams
and your notches and pinning
now sew around your armhole for both
sleeves with a half inch seam allowance
now that my lining is complete I'm going
to set it aside
and follow the exact same steps for the
construction of the main jacket starting
with sewing the seam for the back pieces
so go ahead and sew your seams set in
your sleeves and I'll meet you back here
now that the shells of our jacket and
lining are complete let's work on our
ribb bands place your two sets of rib
bands right sides together and clip the
short ends
only clip these two short ends and sew
with a half inch seam allowance
now that you've sewn the sets of bands
together place them right sides together
and clip one long Edge
and sew this long Edge to join
use a zigzag Stitch or a serger and
maintain your half inch seam allowance
now that our band is joined together we
can attach it to the jacket with right
sides together match your open band to
the bottom of your jacket matching the
back seam and the center Front seams
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ing right sides together with your
jacket sandwiching the band in between
match again your Center back center
Front seams and pin All Along The Hem
stretching your band to fit
now that we've pinned the lining to the
jacket with the band in between take it
to your machine and sew through all
layers with a half inch seam allowance
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now that our lining is attached Flip It
Up
and push the lining sleeves through the
main sleeves
now we can start on our zipper placket
place your placket pieces right sides
together
and pin along the curved Edge all the
way down and across the bottom
sew these two edges add a half inch seam
allowance now that it's sewn I'll turn
it right side out and give it a good
press
with your zipper right side up lay it on
top of your zipper placket aligning the
zipper with the raw Edge match up the
bottom of the zipper to the bottom of
the placket and pin all the way up
the zipper may be longer it's okay for
now
take it to your machine and with your
zipper foot sew down the left side of
your zipper from top to bottom
now pin your placket right sides
together with the right side of your
jacket
tucking it into your rib knit band
and casing it in there and matching the
corner and pinning I've unpicked my
lining half an inch from The Edge this
is going to allow me to top Stitch my
lining to the front of the jacket at a
separate step and give me a cleaner
finish than what I'm seeing in the
original pattern instructions
pin everything but the lining piece and
when we sew don't catch this portion
fold down your rib knit half an inch and
pin that will give us the beginning of
our band enclosure when we go to sew
that later on
take this to your machine and sew the
half inch seam allowance along your
original zipper stitching line
so now I've sewn on my right zipper
placket tucking it into the cuff and
closing the cuff with that half inch
folded under
and I was careful not to catch this
lining portion
now I'm going to top Stitch the edge of
my zipper placket
catching the lining on the opposite side
all the way to the top
fold the edge of your lining half an
inch under
aligning it with your stitching line
and pin all the way up
now take it back to your machine and top
Stitch your jacket close to the left
zipper teeth along the edge of the
jacket
top to bottom
I'll be stitching about our eighth inch
away from this new zipper seam
periodically checking underneath to make
sure that I'm catching the lining
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so now here is what my zipper looks like
on the right side
now separate your zipper
and align the left side of your zipper
tape with the left side of your jacket
the same way we did for the right side
remembering to unpick your lining a half
an inch away from the edge
so that we can enclose the seam the same
way we did on the other side
align the edge of your zipper tape with
the raw edge of your jacket
and closing it in your ribb band
pinning all the way up and then
stitching with your zipper foot
once you've sewn your zipper turn it
under to the inside of the Garment and
roll your lining half inch and pin close
to the zipper teeth we're going to top
Stitch the left side of the jacket the
same way we did on the right side
now that my zipper is fully installed
I'm going to finish my bottom hem band
Folding It Up half an inch and pinning
it just over the original seam
so that when we stitch in the ditch on
the other side we're catching this side
of the headband
now that it's all pinned I'm going to
take it to my machine and Stitch in the
ditch all the way across
to shorten my zipper and create a new
stop here's what I did
I cut both zippers at the neck Edge
and using a needle and thread I'm going
to create a new stop
I'm going to hand sew around the
uppermost zipper tooth
many times to create a blockage
once it's sufficiently sewn go ahead and
snip your thread
do this for both sides of your zipper
fold your cuff in half right sides
together
clip the edge
take it to your machine and sew the half
inch seam allowance
now that it's sewn fold it wrong sides
together
and Mark your quarter points on the raw
Edge
also quarter the bottom of your sleeve
now place the cuff right sides together
with the bottom of your sleeve and clip
matching your seams and pins
as you can see the cuff is much smaller
than the bottom of the sleeve so you're
going to stretch the cuff from clip to
clip and it will fit perfectly nice and
eased in
so take it to your machine and attach
the cuff to your sleeve
now we're going to attach the lining to
the cuff
making sure that the underarm seam of
your lining matches up perfectly inside
your sleeve with the underarm seam of
your main fabric
place your arm into your main fabric
sleeve
entering through your jacket at the
neckline between the lining and the
jacket
pinch your lining and the cuff at the
side seams
hold it tight pull it all out through
the neckline
now tuck your cuff back inside clip your
lining to your jacket right sides
together sandwiching the cuff in between
matching your side seam
it's going to look like this
and you're just going to sew slowly all
around the lining pivoting from Notch to
notch until you sew all the way around
take it to your machine and sew all
around the lining with a half inch seam
allowance
now that the cuff is sewn reach your
hand through the outside of your sleeve
and pull the lining through
now we have a nice finished cuff
with a nice enclosed lining
now the last thing to sew is our collar
Place Your Collar pieces right sides
together
and pin all along the top curved edges
sew with a half inch seam allowance now
that it's sewn turn it right side out
and we're going to attach it to our
neckline
before we attach the color to the
neckline
take a moment to base the lining to the
top of your jacket now clip one layer of
your collar piece
to your jacket matching center backs and
Center fronts
take it to your machine and sew your
color to your neckline
stretching the knit neckband to ease it
in after your collar is attached to the
main jacket the last thing that we have
to do is fold the raw edge of our
remaining collar piece half an inch to
the inside and place it just over our
stitching line so that we can stitch in
the ditch along the entire collar
catching the interior collar piece
now that the inside of the collar is
secured take it to your machine and
Stitch in the ditch all along the
neckline periodically checking
underneath to make sure that you're
catching the neckband and then you're
all done with your jacket
thank you for watching this sew along
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the next video I'll see you next time
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